"Barbecue & Bluegrass Bash!" the invitation read. Intriguing, I thought; but in Delaplane, Virginia and hosted by friends from Singapore. I was hooked now. I had not heard of Delaplane before though my daughter spent four years in college at the University of Richmond in the eastern part of the state. Curiosity got the best of me so I reached for a State of Virginia road atlas and quickly found Delaplane - situated about 45 miles west of Washington Dulles airport mid-way between Dulles and Winchester, Virginia. Though I had visited Richmond many times I had only "passed through" Winchester once while returning to Washington from a drive through the Shenandoah Valley. The invitation to the party was accompanied by an e-mail from American friends, Steve Stine and Anne Hockett, who live in Singapore. My husband and I had met this bright, attractive couple on a bike trip through France five years ago. They were to be home in the U.S. for three weeks and were dying to introduce their two young daughters to their "extended" family of which we were honored to be a part. "Fred's Farm"(the name endearingly given to Steve's father's lush Virginia horse farm) was to be the setting for the reunion.
My spirits soared at the thought of seeing these old friends, meeting their daughters, Maddie and Becca who are both under five and discovering yet another part of the state of Virginia I knew nothing about. Our hosts-to-be were kind enough to include in the e-mail an extensive list of B&B's in the Middleburg, Virginia area about twenty minutes from Delaplane. Aristocratic names as The Goodstone Inn, the Red Fox Inn, Wellbourne, 1763, The Ashby Inn and Maidstone were listed. Even "Poor House Farm" sounded appealing. We settled on The Red Fox Inn in the town of Middleburg itself for no apparent reason other than "Lucy" in reservations had a slightly English accent and was very hospitable. Dating back to 1728 and with only twenty-five rooms this inn would be the perfect spot for our weekend getaway in Virginia.
Virginia is a state with rich heritage, history, scenic beauty and charm. I looked forward to returning. So with great anticipation, my husband, son and I flew to Washington Dulles in mid July for a little more than $200 each; rented our typical vehicle, a Hertz Camry and headed to Middleburg. As we entered the town and drove through what appeared to be the main drag, I noticed names as "Hunt Country Yarns" and "Finicky Filly" displayed on storefronts. We were definitely in Virginia horse country now. We passed saddlery shops, a garden shop, a great-looking bookstore called The Book Chase and a grocery store, The Piedmont Gourmet, offering cappuccino, bakery goods, fresh fish, cheeses, and other high quality take-out items. I needed a coffee so my husband politely stopped so I could satisfy my cappuccino fix. In mingling with the locals inside I realized another obvious fact. There is money in Middleburg - old Virginia money. Sauntering down the street my female eye caught a glimpse of a very genteel-looking boutique. Displayed in the window was Calvin Klein linens, Donna Karan silks and rich Italian leather shoes. Needless to say my fiscally minded spouse hurried me along.
Checking into The Red Fox Inn before heading to the bash, I was pleased to learn a bit of the history of the Inn and the town from the concierge who greeted us with a very informative brochure. Middleburg was chartered as a town in 1787 and prospered over the years growing in reputation as the nation's foremost area for fox hunting, thoroughbred breeding and horse racing thanks in part to its close proximity to Washington, D.C. Many Washingtonians seeking hideaway find solace here in the heart of hunt country. The land The Red Fox Inn and four "sister" inns rest on was originally called Chinn's Ordinary for Joseph Chinn who built a tavern here. The territory was part of the vast estate of Thomas, sixth Lord of Fairfax and Baron of Cameron who preferred his log cabin on the Shenandoah to his London palace. Today The Red Fox Inn provides guests with romantic accommodations, great food and excellent service. The Roggerson Suite a two-room suite with four-poster bed, sitting area and sleeper sofa was our spot for the night and suited our needs perfectly.
We drove on to Delaplane through rolling hills, horse farms and pastures usually verdant at this time of the year but a bit dry due to lack of rain. No matter, the landscape was nonetheless breathtaking and as I took the scene in I began to wonder about the friends we were heading to see. How much, if any, had they changed? Steve and Anne were parents now. Were they adjusting? And what would their families and other friends be like? Did we hit it off as friends five years ago in Provence solely because of the ease and beauty of the Backroads bike trip and the French countryside?
Or was it something deeper?
We found the farm fairly easily and were a bit uneasy upon entering the long tree-lined drive as we realized that we were one of the first families to arrive. But as I peered out across the lawn I caught sight of Anne's lovely ever-smiling face and immediately felt at home. Steve greeted us, introduced us to our gracious host his dad, Fred Stine, and then lured us further on by the promise of meeting the girls. Over the course of the afternoon we met members of both sides of their families. We enjoyed stirring conversation with many young, intelligent and enthusiastic people from all over the U.S. who had grown up with, studied with, worked with or traveled with Anne or Steve at some point in time. We were all proud to call these dynamic duo friends. We feasted on barbeque and listened to the lively bluegrass music of The Shenandoah Travelers, a local group of very talented elderly musicians. Later in the day we were officially introduced to Maddie and Becca in a "naming" ceremony - an Asian custom in which family and friends who are present learn about the children, pray for them and promise to play a part in their lives for years to come. I was reduced to tears. The experience was so moving.
We bid adieu at sunset with promises to keep in touch. I vowed to them that one day we would visit Singapore. I have always been fascinated by the culture and would truly love to have the opportunity to visit with "locals" as Steve and Anne are having been in Asia for over ten years. They feel they will remain there for a while. Anne regaled me with so many options for exotic side trips too. I could go on to Burma and Bhutan and Bangkok; I had perhaps dreamed of spending a night in The Oriental Hotel in that golden city. We thanked Fred profusely for sharing his charming "farm" with us. Once again he showed his gentlemanly hospitality by inviting us on Sunday to visit one of the many wineries this area of Virginia is noted for - Naked Mountain, Locust Hill, Piedmont, Linden - we could take our choice. It seems our love of wine and wine tasting came up in conversation. Anne and Steve were committed to attend a christening on Sunday in Alexandria. So naturally we accepted and promised to return the next day at noon.
Driving back to the Inn in Middleburg we noticed a heart-stopping array of stars one can only perceive in wide-open spaces as this Virginia countryside. We arrived at the Red Fox Inn just in time for a late dinner in the elegant restaurant, a cozy, dimly lit, romantic place.
I was amazed at the excellent quality of the cuisine in this small little town but again remembered the monies gentry in this area. We feasted on crab cakes with aioli, fine aged beef and delectable desserts. The wine list included domestic and imported vintage wines but showcased the wines from local Virginia vineyards. We recognized Linden for this was to be our destination on the morrow. My favorite was the Naked Mountain Chardonnay. It was big, oakey, buttery and as flavorful as the expensive "Chards" from California. And I loved the name. We were grateful that we had only to climb the stairs to our suite to seek slumber.
The morning broke in glory with sunshine, crystal clear skies and temperatures in the 60's. And this was July. We politely arrived back at Fred Stine's farm at the appointed hour of 12 noon only to find dear Fred still snoozing. After attempting to awaken him with many raps on the wooden door, we started back to the car just as Fred appeared in his robe apologizing profusely as good Virginia gentlemen do. It seems that he had stayed up quite late cleaning up. In no time Fred was dressed and off we went on our wine- tasting journey.
Heading west from Delaplane we passed Naked Mountain Winery and I commented that I had enjoyed their chardonnay the evening prior. Fred was quick to comment that while that wine is quite good he felt that the Linden chardonnay was even better. I couldn't wait (though it was just past 12 noon and we did have to drive back to Washington to fly home.) Moments later we arrived at Linden and on first glance at the vines, the many cars parked in the lot, and the people milling about some with wine glasses in hand, I absentmindedly thought I was in California. Maybe even Napa Valley. Families with small children picked blackberries in the fields adjacent to the vineyard enjoying the sunshine. People young and old alike sauntered into the tasting room to savor a bit of the fine wines Linden produces. We did the same then settled, at Fred's insistence, on a bottle of chardonnay to accompany our "tasting" lunch. We progressed to a charming table on the patio overlooking the vines and the sprawling Virginia hills and I had found Nirvana. We shared cured salmon, local goat cheese, English style cheddar made in Virginia, baguettes and the yummy bottle of Linden wine. I must admit this won "hands down" over the Naked Mountain offering.
I don't believe I've ever considered Virginia to be a mecca for the wine lover, though Thomas Jefferson sure was one. And Napa Valley it's not and doesn't profess to be. Not yet, anyway. What Virginia does offer to the wine enthusiast are less crowds, genteel and hospitable people and a topography both unique yet similar in feel to the California wine producing regions. It could just be a pleasant alternative to Napa or Sonoma in October when the leaves are turning golden hues and the grapes are ripe for picking and crushing.
As we boarded the plane at the Dulles Airport ending a quick yet eventful and inspiring weekend, I remarked to my son how lucky I felt that we were able to renew acquaintances with Anne and Steve, meet their adorable daughters and rekindle our love of Virginia. We agreed too that we especially appreciated making a new friend in a gracious "southern" gentleman, Fred Stine.